Ho Chi Minh City to Hoi An Jan.24-31

Hello Everyone,
We have finally mastered the fine art of crossing the street in Asia ! As  mentioned in a previous blog, you do not wait for a gap in the traffic ( because it will never come), you merely step off the curb with hundreds of motorbikes coming at you from all directions. Continue to walk at a steady pace toward the opposite side of the street while you are holding your breath. Never take a step backward or you will back into the motorbike which is raising the hair on the back of your neck! Somehow, motorbikes part to go around you and you reach the opposite side of the street safely. The same procedure is used at night but we now know how it feels to be a deer in headlights when all we can see are the headlights, or lack of, coming at us.
The food in this part of the world has been amazing! We have eaten so many spring rolls, both fried and fresh, that we are beginning to look like one! Southeast Asia is a gastronomer's delight. Foods are flavoured with lemongrass, ginger, chili and tamarind. We were fortunate to have been taken to an authentic seafood restaurant on the river frequented by locals except for our large group of expats. Here we had the experience of making our own fresh spring rolls.......which promplty fell apart! Fortunately, Bryan's wife Ee, took pity on us and made the spring rolls for us. How delicious they were.
We also had the good fortune to be passengers on motorbikes while in Saigon. It is like being in the middle of the pack in the Indianapolis 500!
At every stop light there are about 30 - 40 motorbikes at the head of the line waiting for the light to change. When making a left hand turn, the motorbike just continues to procede, weaving its' way through the oncoming traffic. We were fortunate to come out the other side in one piece. Actually, for the amount of traffic on the roads in Saigon, we saw very few mishaps.
After leaving the hectic pace of Saigon, we were ready for a little R & R in the quiet seaside town of Mui Ne.The area is well know for kite surfing and at any one time you can see up to 100 or more surfers plying the waves. We enjoyed relaxing on the beach and swimming in the South China Sea for a few days. Just what we needed after the crazyness of the big city. Even the beach hawkers were not bothersome. All you had to say was "No thank you" once to the ladies carrying their wares on long poles.
The next leg of our trip took us five hours by bus further up the coast to Nha Trang, a quiet ,small city with a beautiful municipal beach. Nha Trang is know as the beach capital of Vietnam with its' six km. long beach. The water was turquoise and the many offshore islands made this a most scenic stop.  The landscape along the way took us through huge sand dunes, rice paddies, fertile valleys, desert, and mountainous areas. Vietnam is exceptionally picturesque.
While in Nha Trang, we visited their cultural centre and were fortunate to see the ladies working on their fine silk embroidery pictures. We now know why these pictures cost so much as millions of stitches comprise each piece of work.How beautiful they were.
We decided to take a break from the bus and took an hour flight to the historical jewel of Hoi An. This has been designated as a World Heritage UNESCO sight with its' old buildings and narrow car free streets. We were fortunate to arrive on a full moon when Hoi An celebrates its' "Legendary Night". Motorbikes are banned from the old town which is transformed into a magical land of  lanterns which you can purchase and float down the river. Street games and dance performances can be observed throughout the town.
Hoi An has long been known for fabric production and has an estimated 300 - 500 tailors.It has been fun to bargain with them and indulge in some tailor made clothing.....the results of which you will see when we return. It won't come as a surprise to you when I say that I bought more than frugal Ross!!
Within a couple of days we will be heading to Hue and then flying to Hanoi.
Until the next post,
Joan & Ross

Mekong Delta Tour to HCMC Jan.18 -22

Hello Everyone,
Our Mekong Delta tour started with an hour and a half drive in a rickety old "combi" to get to the ferry. Was this a sign of things to come? Upon seeing the boat, our reaction was one of surprise as you can imagine. I was able to count 16 life jackets for 22 people! The day was warm and sunny however and the trip was quite enjoyable. It was so interesting to see how the delta people live.
The people who live in this area use the river for everything from laundry to bathing to washing food and more. The banks are lined with fertile farms and shacks.
Our first night was spent in Chao Doc in a very basic hotel with a shower which was actually the whole bathroom! No shower curtain, no enclosure, just the floor to stand on. We took everything out of the bathroom which could get wet and just went for it! Perhaps bathing in the Mekong isn't such a bad idea!
We were up by six the next morning and taken on an even smaller boat to visit a Cham Village. The Cham people are a minority group who make up .5% of Vietnam's population. They are Muslim, worship in a mosque in the town and speak Arabic. After a tour of their village and a demonstration of weaving their beautiful cloths, we were taken by mini van to our next stop which was the town of Can Tho.
Unfortunately it was raining but we made the best of it and explored the town. With the early mornings, it was nice to have some time to relax. Ross was able to catch a taped  San Diego/ N.Y. Jets game on T.V. and so he was happy.
The following day we visited the floating market not far from Can Tho. It was another rainy day but we persevered. At least it isn't snowing!There were hundreds of boats, each boat selling a different product. They "advertise" what they are selling by attaching some of their product to a tall pole for everyone to see. So, if you want to buy a melon, you look for the pole which has a melon dangling from it and head for it.
At 12 o'clock we left by bus for our trip to Ho Chi Minh City/ Saigon. Although it is only 170 km. away it takes close to six hours to get there due to the roads, weather and traffic.
As luck would have it, and unknown to us, the bus stopped right outside the door of the An An 2 Hotel where we had booked the next four nights. We are staying in  District 1, the downtown area, which is still called Saigon. The area surrounding this is Ho Chi Minh City. The city has a population of 7.1 million people and there are over 4 million motorbikes.
Yesterday we toured Reunification Palace. If you are of our generation, you may remember seeing on TV, helicopters airlifting the American civilians from this city during the Vietnam war.
Last night we met up with a very nice young man from Mississauga who has been living in Saigon for six years. Our thanks to Bonnie and Ken for providing this contact. Mark teaches English at an International School here and is married to a lovely Vietnamese lady. Lu's family owns a restaurant called Margheritas just around the corner from our hotel. It was wonderful to spend the evening with them and to be treated to a Vietnamese Hot Pot - seafood and vegetables cooked in a large pot at your table and served with noodles. I even managed to eat it with chopsticks!
Today was spent touring the Cu Chi Tunnels, 70 km. northwest of H.C.M.C. The elaborate system of underground tunnels are over 200 km. long and were built to house the Cu Chi people both during the French war in the late 1940's and the Vietnam war. Entrances to the tunnels measure about 18 cm. by 30 cm. The tour ended with a documentary film made by the North Vietnamese Government giving their perspective of the "War of Liberation" against the South Vietnamese and the Americans.
We have one more day in Saigon before we start heading north up the coast of Vietnam to the beach town of Mui Ne. We are looking forward to relaxing with a pool, the ocean and temperatures in the 30's.
We enjoy reading your comments.
Until the next post,
Joan & Ross

Siem Reap to Phnom Penh Jan. 16/10

After seeing rice paddies and water buffalo on our trip up to the Tonle Sap Lake, we left Siem Reap early in the morning on the Mekong Express Bus and six hours later arrived in Phnom Penh. The land in this part of Cambodia is flat and at this time of year, extremely dry and dusty.
We arrived at the bus terminal and easily found a tuk tuk to take us to our hotel. Actually, they are all over you for your business.
Riding in a tuk tuk is an experience! There are no rules of the road, stop signs do not exist and red lights are ignored. Often you find yourself going in the wrong lane against the oncoming traffic.As you approach an intersection traffic continues to roll weaving around everyone else until you come out the other side.
Trying to cross the street is a different story. You slowly step off the curb and continue to walk carefully towards the other side of the street. The traffic will somehow avoid  hitting you. It all works - traffic moving in all directions on the same road - haven't seen any accidents yet.
Last night we wondered along Sisowath Quay and had dinner at the FCC. This is the Foreign Correspondents Club where journalists gathered during the Vietnam War era. It is now frequented by westerners and has great food. Getting back to our hotel - The Frangipani Villas 60- was another story. We had a tuk tuk driver who got lost. Of course it was dark and he couldn't see the map we had. He stopped several times to ask directions and finally we arrived home. The Cambodian people are all very friendly and helpful.
Today - Jan. 17 - we visited the Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum which was a high school converted to a prison during the regime of Pol Pot and the Kmer Rouge. This is where people were imprisoned and tortured from 1974 - 1979 before they were transported to the Killing Fields.
We then continued on to Choeung Ek Genocidal Centre which were the actual Killing Fields outside of Phnom Penh. It was a very sombre experience. The movie The Killing Fields was based on this period of time.
We have purchased our tickets and will spend the next two nights and three days travelling down the Mekong Delta to Ho Chi Minh City (Saigon). We have our bug spray ready and have begun to take Malarone (anti malarial medication). Hopefully, we will not experience any side effects.
Until the next post,
Joan & Ross

Chong Kneas Floating Village Part 2

Chong Kneas Floating Village Jan. 16/10

Today we toured the floating village of Chong Kneas on the Tonle Sap Lake which is 16 KM. south of Siem Reap. It is only one of several floating villages on the lake with a population of  3,500. The lake is the largest fresh water lake in SE Asia and is a designated UNESCO biosphere.

The flow of the Tonle Sap River changes direction twice a year and the portion which forms the lake rises and falls between 1 and 12 metres. When it is at its' lowest, the people move from their floating homes to the nearby mountain and wait for the monsoons at which time they move back to their lake homes.

The area is home to many Vietnamese and Cambodian floating communities with a total

Fishing as well as alligator and fish farming provide the main source of protein as well as a livlihood for these people. The average annual income for these people is $500 US.

Until next post,

Joan & Ross

Siem Reap, Cambodia Jan. 13/10

Somehow we figured out how to post this picture..........hopefully we will be able to do it again!
We arrived in Siem Reap after a short forty minute flight from Bangkok. Most of the flight was spent filling in all the necessary forms in order to get into Cambodia. We were met at the airport by our driver in his tuk tuk and driven to the Golden Temple Villa where we are staying for four days.
The weather in Cambodia is sunny and hot. Although Ross complains about it, I tell him that sweating is good as it is detoxifying his body!
Today was spent touring Angkor Wat and the surrounding smaller temples. All were very impressive as you can see by the above picture. This is the sight where they filmed Tomb Raider with Anjolina Jolie.
At the entrance to every temple were many children of all ages trying to sell you cold drinks, books, postcards, jewelery and scarves as well as other assorted goods. I'm sure the first words learned by these children is "'one dolla, one dolla". We also saw groups of musicians playing Cambodian music who were landmine victims. A large sign gave the message "Rather than begging, we are trying to earn a living with dignity".While driving from temple to temple we were amused by the wild monkeys playing at the side of the road and which could be approached very easily.
Siem Reap is a small city that caters to tourists who come to visit Angkor Wat.
There are many excellent restaurants to choose from. Last night we dined at a restaurant called Aha which was featured in Budget Traveller Magazine. Many thanks Renee for the information. The food was delicious, especially the mango salad with dried snake! The snake ressembled small pieces of bacon which were sprinkled on top of the salad. Ross did not have the nerve to even sample this!
After dinner we strolled through the night market. One fascinating booth was where you could get an hour long  leg massage given by blind people. Another interesting activity was where you could put your feet in a large pool and have them "tickled" by hundreds of tiny fish. So far we have resisted buying anything.
We are about to pick up our laundry ( 6 items for one US dollar ) and then have a foot massage.
So until next post, keep warm.
Joan & Ross

Bangkok Jan. 11/10

Sahwahdeekah Everyone,
Bangkok is a bustling city of nearly 12 million people and we have only seen the tip of it. The main religion is Buddhism and the statue of Bhudda can be seen everywhere. Saffron-robed monks mingle with the crowds as they go about their business. People greet each other with hands together and a slight bow of the head. Even Ronald McDonald assumes this pose in front of the restaurant.
Although the streets are jammed with traffic, there is very little horn honking. Everyone demonstrates aan abundance of patience. Taxis, motorbikes and tuk tuks transport people everywhere. We experienced our first tuk tuk ride - a small motorized vehicle with an open air cab - which took us to several jewellery shops and tailors where the driver would get a cut if we bought anything. Of course we didn't because we are only travelling with backpacks. As far as having suits and shirts tailor made in six hours, well, being retired, we really don't have much occasion to wear that type of clothes anymore. However, the prices are fantastic and the materials are beautiful.
A riverboat cruise on the Chao Phraya River took us to the Temple of the Dawn, the King's royal longtail boats with their guilded intricate carvings and a tour of the canals lined with wooden shanties where people just step into the river to do their laundry and bathing. We ended our tour at the Grand Palace which enforces a very strict dress code. Ross had to rent long pants along with many others who were wearing shorts. Women's shoulders had to be covered and they either had to be wearing dresses or long pants.
The Royal Thai family lived in this complex from the 1780's to 1946. It is an immense complex with residences, temples, ornate golden carvings and government buildings. The Temple of the Emerald Buddha was especially impressive and many people were making floral offerings and burning incense to honour him.
Shoes need to be removed before entering any temple and toes must not be pointed toward the Buddha.
We took a local riverboat ferry back to the Central Pier along with as many other people who could be jammed onto it- no life jackets in sight! Cost 20 Baht (80 cents) for a twenty minute boat ride.
Last night we met up with an acquaintance of Ross' from many years ago. Scott has been living and working in Thailand since 1992. He arrived at our hotel with his huge hockey bag and stick as he was playing hockey that evening. Where would you find an arena in Thailand? Apparently there is a hockey league for expats here.He is a senior editor of five travel magazines for Southeast Asia and was able to give us many tips for things to see and do.
Scott's recommendation for dinner was a restaurant called "Cabbages and Condoms" which was opened by a local senator who founded the Population and Community Development Association. This restaurant helps fund population control, AIDs awareness and a host of rural development programs. The meal was excellent and when the bill arrived, instead of the usual two mints on the tray, there were two condoms!! On our way out, we strolled into the gift shop and you won't believe the things you can make out of condoms!
There are three Red Light Districts in Bangkok and although we are not in the middle of one, we are only a short stroll away. Needless to say, our walks at night have provided us with some eye opening entertainment.
Bangkok is a very easy and safe city to get around in and we are comfortable using its' BTS (skytrain).
Tomorrow we leave for Siem Reap, Cambodia. We look forward to a calmer and slower paced small city and the much anticipated tour of Angkor Wat.
We have decided to take the hour flight to Siem Reap in order to have more time there, rather than spending nine hours on a bus with the possibility of a hassle at the border.
Until the next post,
Joan & Ross 

We have Arrived!

Bangkok, Jan. 8/10
Hello to everyone and welcome as we take you along on our travels through Southeast Asia to the countries of Thailand, Laos, Cambodia and Vietnam. This blog will be our version of "Don't Forget Your Passport" as we share our impressions of the sights, tastes and sounds of this part of the world.
Our blog will be a public journal/diary of the things that we will experience during the next three months. We are not professional journalists, nor did we get straight A's in creative writing but hopefully, this will provide some entertainment for you and a record for us as you follow our travels and adventures.
Travelling to this part of the world is something we have wanted to do for the last several years and finally we are here.
We would like to give thanks to Stephanie for her encouragement in finally getting us to put this trip together, to Bryan for his help in setting up this blog ( Bry, we can't figure out how to get pictures into our blog yet!!),
to Trevor and Melissa for their many tips and the loan of their backpack and to Vallry W. for her time in answering our many questions and for her invaluable information which we have brought along with us.
After a long, tiring and uneventful thirty four hours in transit, we finally arrived in Bangkok to a humid 30 degrees while leaving Toronto far behind with it's -13 C. Our flight was smooth and comfortable as we managed to exchange our seats for the exit aisle row with plenty of room for stretching out, standing up and moving around. Who would have thought these seats would be available two hours before take off. Several years ago I learned a lesson from Doug W., that if you don't ask, you don't get and so "I did ask and I got!" which made our flight so much more comfortable.
Bangkok is twelve hours ahead of Toronto time and so the first "problem" we are contending with is the jet lag. As a matter of fact, I am writing this at 3:20 a.m while my body is thinking that it is 3:20 p.m. I am sure that it will take the next few days to adjust.
One of the things that Ross and I enjoy most about travelling is the people we meet. Although we have only been gone two days, we will remember the very humourous 75 year old gentleman from Sault St. Marie who shared the Toronto airport shuttle with us at 4:45 a.m. He was about to embark on a 116 day "Around the World" cruise on the "Geritol" cruise ship for $40,000!!!! In Bangkok, we stood in the immigration line and chatted with a very "well heeled" lady ( her words, not mine) from Dallas who was taking her two daughters (who attend the Ivy League college Brown in Providence Rhode Island) on a three week Asian vacation. We have had breakfast with a young woman from Bowmanville who works as a civilian and is on a month long vacation away from the Forces base in Kandahar Afghanistan. Her stories were fascinating. We have chatted with a couple from Birmingham England who have just purchased land and are having a home built in southern Thailand and who would be more than happy to rent it to us once it is completed.
Our first venture out into Bangkok yesterday awakened our senses to all of the sights, sounds, tastes and smells that lie ahead of us over the next several weeks.
There are shrines to dieties with offerings of fruit and burning incense set up on every corner. I was going to insert a picture of the shrine outside of our hotel but you might have to wait a while until I learn how to do it. The scent of lemongrass fills the air as you walk into buildings. The street food stalls which line the sidewalks looking tempting but not just yet and for sure all of  the fried bugs which we saw last night will never pass our lips!!
A walk through the Suan Lum Night Market offered anything that you might want to buy while a stroll down any  Soi (side street) gave you the opportunity to have any type of massage that you might want to have including "Annie's World Famous Soapy Massage". I had to pull Ross away from there!
And yes, it is true that there are hundreds of older Caucasian men with younger Asian ladies. In an effort to curb this, some hotels post signs saying "No Sex Tourists".
Tomorrow is another day and who knows what it will bring, but you will hear about it in our next post. But for now, I am going to try to get some more sleep!
Until next time,
Joan & Ross